Queer Places:
Paraphernalia, 795 Madison Ave, New York, NY 10065
357 Main St, Whitesburg, KY 41858
Paul Young (1926 - September 28, 2003) was the owner of the trendsetting
New York City boutique Paraphernalia, the retail concept he was best known for
in the U.S., and was an early promoter of the miniskirt. Paraphernalia,
located right on the stretch of Madison Avenue known in some circles as "Art
Alley", the dress store looked more like an op-pop-art gallery than an
hang-em-up, try-em-on, dress shop. The opening party was organized by
Andy Warhol.
The designer Betsey Johnson got her start at Paraphernalia, which Young owned into the 1960s and 1970s. He was credited with bringing the mod styles of England's Mary Quant, known as the mother of the miniskirt, to America from swinging London, according to the Web site of J. C. Penney, where Young once worked as a buyer.
Before opening Paraphernalia, Young moved to the States from London in the mid-1950s and landed a job at J.C. Penney in Greenfield, Mass. There, he learned about American retailing and found that was where he wanted to stay. During a trip back to London, he became fascinated by the city’s boutiques and thought that New York was ready for the same sort of retail concept. When Young returned to America and mentioned the idea to executives at Penney’s, the company wasn’t interested in investing in such a concept. Young teamed up with Carl Rosen, chief executive at Puritan Fashions, a Seventh Avenue dress manufacturer, and began Youthquake as a division of Puritan in 1965. From there he opened Paraphernalia, a small, trendy boutique in Manhattan. Young was always a known fan of the miniskirt and was one of the first to sell the look. He jump-started the careers of Betsey Johnson and Mary Quant, giving the designers exposure in his store before they were on the mainstream fashion radar. “I wouldn’t be here today without Paul Young,” Johnson said. “I couldn’t even get an interview since I had no education in fashion. He took me under his wing and made me who I am. He let me design whatever I wanted as long as it sold — what a great way to learn the business.”
Joel Schumacher's "LOVE" dress
In September 1965, the very first Paraphernalia opened in New York on Madison Avenue between 66th and 67th streets. A laboratory and showcase for fresh design talent, Paraphernalia led a new epoch in fashionable New York. Founder Paul Young's take on fashion: "Personally, I've always thought anybody who takes fashion seriously is ridiculous. I mean, they're just clothes. Therefore they should be fun, and nothing about wearing then should be taken seriously." He chose a motley group for his original design team: Betsey Johnson, Deanna Littel, Carol Friedland and Joel Schumacher. Later came Michael Mott, Elisa Stone, and Diana Dew. British designers were also featured in the boutique, such as Mary Quant and Foale & Tuffin. Dresses at Paraphernalia became found objects fashioned from industrial materials, fabrics "you'd spray with Windex, rather than dry-clean," recalled Betsey Johnson. Remarkable ideas were unveiled, such as light-up dresses, gel dresses, dresses with 'LOVE' on the front (the 'O' cut out to reveal the navel), and paper dresses. However, none of Paraphernalia's clothes retailed for more than $99. Said Paul Young: "People would walk into the store dressed in their straight clothes. They'd buy something and put it on. Then and there they'd apply an outrageous make-up, before heading directly to a party. They were buying something to wear tonight and more or less throw away tomorrow. We priced our clothes with that in mind." The shop possessed a unique ambiance - it resembled a minimalist art gallery, streaked in white, silver, and neutral-colored wood, masterminded by architect Ulrich Franzen. Fans of the shop included Penelope Tree, Julie Christie, Marisa Berenson and Twiggy. Perhaps Paraphernalia's most ardent patron, however, was Edie Sedgwick, who was introduced to Betsey Johnson by Andy Warhol and quickly became her fitting model, and wore her designs in Ciao! Manhattan. In the later 60s, many more Paraphernalias opened. By then, most of the original designers had left the flagship store, and Paraphernalia franchise died out in the late 70s.
The shop was in vogue for a decade and then faded into obscurity, as did Young, who had been living quietly in Appalachia. Young helped market a small restaurant in West Virginia. He also helped a local artist get his paintings into a New York gallery. Young became executor of Edie Sedgwick’s estate.
Paul Young was found dead in his apartment in Whitesburg, Ky, on September 28, 2003. He was 77. The cause was a heart ailment, said a deputy coroner, Robbie Campbell.
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